Question – who here likes a castle on a hill? Especially an isolated castle on a hill? I know I certainly do. For one thing, it appeals to the rich hermit that lives in me. For another, there is always the possibility of ghosts, and even though I don’t believe in them, I still hold out a tiny tiny sliver of hope to see one. So when the train pulled into the Penzance station and I saw St Michael’s Mount framed against the horizon, I knew that I had to visit this place.
St. Michael’s Mount sits on craggy tidal island in Cornwall, England. It’s believed that the site started as a monastery sometime during the 8th to 11th century. By the 11th century, it became the Cornish twin to the French Mont Saint-Michel when it was given over to the Benedictines. In the mid-13th century, much of the original building was destroyed by an earthquake so of the buildings we see today, parts of them date back to the rebuilding that took place in the 14th century. In the 15th century, when England went to war against France, St. Michael’s Mount had its connections to Mont Saint-Michel severed by Henry V.
One of the best things about St. Michael’s Mount is how to get there. During high tide, there are boats to take you across to the 15th century harbour. Or if you wait for low tide, you can walk across! From the little town of Marazion near Penzance, there is a granite man-made causeway that leads directly to the island. Once there, a path through the gardens and several historical structures takes you up to the medieval doorway of the castle. There are a number of rooms which you’re allowed to visit but you can’t really explore the nooks and crannies, unfortunately. It is understandable, though – if I owned this place, I wouldn’t let random tourists touch my 18th century books or sit on my 16th century furniture either! Speaking of owners, the castle is run by the National Trust but the St. Aubyn family who has owned it since the late 1600s retains a 999-year lease to inhabit it. Lucky people…
Inside the castle, you’ll see all sorts of things including plaster frieze depicting hunting scenes, stained glass that date back to the 1500s, armour and weapons from various places around the world, and a pretty fantastic wood ceiling in one room. But no ghosts. St. Michael’s Mount had more than its fair share of devious politics, strict religion, and bloody war – you’d think there’d be a ghost or two. Unluckily, I didn’t see any…
The fact that I didn’t find a ghost was more than made up for once I stepped out on to the terraces of the castle walls. The panoramas of the water and the Cornish landscape were phenomenal. The gardens around the castle were pretty awesome as well – I’d be a gardener if my work location was on a cliff at a sea’s edge! There are also canons so you can pretend to fight the pirates attacking Marazion and Penzance, if you’d like.
All in all, St. Michael’s Mount is a pretty neat place for those who enjoy architecture, history, and landscapes. And if you are a photographer, you’d also have a great time out here!
Have you been to Mont St. Michel? How does it compare to St. Michael’s Mount?
I definitely have to go there some day. At first, I thought it was Mont St. Michell in France – the first pictures in your post share a resemblance with it and it’s one of the locations you can find on the top of my travel wishlist. But this place looks pretty interesting too and it’s much easier for me to communicate with the Brits than the French 🙂
Haha, yes, having the language definitely helps! Hopefully one day soon we both can see both and see which one we like best 🙂
Actually, I ought to be able to speak with the French as well, but I haven’t spoken French since my a-levels so I’ve completely forgotten how to speak it and especially how to understand what they’re saying
It’s amazing (and frustrating) how easy it is to lose a language skill!
Marazion is my favourite Cornish town. Although not so big as Mont Saint-Michel, St Michel’s Mount is not so busy! The BBC have been broadcasting a classic Cornish drama – ‘ Poldark’ – that sadly ends this Sunday. Maybe BBC World will screen it soon. The cinematography of the cornish landscapes is just wonderful.
Oh nice! I will have to see if I can find it – thanks for telling me about it!
More English castles! What more could I want?
I love tidal islands! Did you end up ferrying over or walking?
It’s a beautiful looking castle and the grounds are amazing. I can’t believe people live there! Why, oh why am I such a peasant?
We definitely walked! Took our sweet time, too 🙂 And I, too, wonder why I don’t have ancestral castles in which I could live…sigh…
I have been to Mont Saint Michelle and it is epic. In fact to be quite honest it is the entire reason I want to travel to that portion of France. It certainly compares to Cornwall. However, as always it is different. It seems the road to get to Your Mount is more interesting since France built a road. But the town on the mountain in France is very charming and the grounds are amazing.
Your post has inspired me to want to visit both so I can compare for myself. Thank you! I didn’t even know it existed.
Awesome! Yes, I would also love to visit Mont St. Michel myself to see how it compares to the one in Cornwall!
I thought I had done a post from when I visited and apparently I haven’t. There are a few misc. photos from there but I think I need to do a post. I will let you know when I do!
yes, please do let me know! would love to read it 🙂
wow! I would love to visit this for its architecture! 🙂 loved the granite pathway too!
The pathway was my favourite 🙂
really interesting post – I’d heard that Mont St. Michel had an English twin! I went Mont St. Michel many years ago on my first trip to Europe – the scenery around it is very similar to St Michael’s Mount. From memory Mont St Michel was beautiful, but absolutely packed with tourists. I went there toward the end of my trip so in my exhaustion I probably didn’t give it the attention it deserved – might have to visit it again in one day 🙂
SMM was busy but not horribly so but that may be because I was there early spring, so shoulder season. I wonder if it would get packed in the summer like MSM as you mentioned!
I would love to explore the Cornish coast one day so will have to add SMM to the list! 🙂
Yes, do! I suggest a road trip – the area is fantastic for that 🙂
It just looks so beautiful. Plus there’s a Rick Steins to try out! 🙂